FAQ

The difference is how the window is fastened into the wall.

Replacement windows (also called insert or pocket windows) are made to fit inside your existing window frame. We remove the old sashes and stops, check the frame for rot, set the new window in, insulate the gaps and trim it out. Your interior casing, exterior trim and siding stay where they are, so the job is faster, cleaner and costs less.

New construction windows have a nailing flange around the outside and are fastened directly to the wall framing, so the old frame comes out completely and the siding and trim around the opening are opened up. They cost more to install, but they give you a new, fully flashed and water-sealed opening.

What we recommend:

• Choose replacement windows when the existing frames are solid and you are only upgrading the windows — this is the right choice for most homes.
• Choose new construction windows when the frames are rotted, when you want to change the size or shape of an opening, or when the house is being re-sided anyway — with the siding off, a full-frame window with proper flashing is the better long-term job at little extra cost.

Not sure which you need? During the free in-home consultation we check every opening and tell you window by window. You can also price both options on any window page — "Installation type" switches between them.

Both work — the right answer depends on the condition of the wood and how long you plan to stay in the house.

Painting costs less up front and keeps the original look of the house. It is the better choice when the clapboards are sound: little rot, paint that is peeling in places rather than everywhere, and trim that only needs spot repairs. Expect to repaint every 7–10 years in New England, and on homes built before 1978 the old paint has to be handled with lead-safe work practices, which adds prep time.

Residing costs more once, then removes the painting cycle. New vinyl, composite or fiber cement siding goes over new house wrap (and insulation, if you choose it), so the walls are tighter and warmer, and it comes with the manufacturer's warranty plus our 15-year workmanship warranty.

A simple rule of thumb: if more than about a quarter of the siding is rotted, split or won't hold paint, or you are facing your second or third repaint, residing is usually the better value. If the wood is in good shape and you love its character, paint it.

We do both, so we have no reason to push one over the other — see exterior painting and siding, or book a consultation and we will show you where your house stands.

Start with three questions: what look you want, how much maintenance you are willing to do, and your budget.

Style. Horizontal lap (clapboard) suits most colonials and capes; wider exposures read as modern, narrower 4"–5" exposures as traditional New England. Shingles (cedar or cedar-look) fit capes, shingle-style and coastal homes. Vertical board & batten gives a farmhouse look and works well on gables and accent walls. Many homes mix two styles — for example lap siding with shingles in the gables.

Material — from lowest to highest cost:

• Vinyl (CertainTeed, Mastic) — never needs paint, widest colour range, the most affordable way to reside. Premium and insulated lines are thicker and lie flatter.
• Composite (Alside Ascend, Everlast) — rigid, straight panels that look like painted wood, with through-colour finishes and built-in insulation on Ascend.
• Fiber cement (James Hardie) — the look of painted wood, non-combustible, resists rot, insects and woodpeckers; the factory ColorPlus finish lasts much longer than field paint.
• Natural cedar (white or red cedar shingles, wood clapboards) — real wood character; the highest cost and it needs periodic stain or paint.

Cost. Every product on our siding page shows an average project cost for the same typical house, so you can compare them side by side, and each product page gives an instant estimate for your own home's size and trim options. At the consultation we bring samples, check any historic-district or HOA rules, and give you a written price.

It comes down to the age of the roof, how widespread the damage is, and what is underneath the shingles.

A repair is usually enough when the roof is less than about 15 years old, the problem is local — a few shingles blown off in a storm, a leak around a chimney, vent or skylight flashing — and the deck underneath is dry and solid.

It is time to replace when:

• the shingles are 20–25 years old or more;
• they are curling, cracked or brittle, or you find a lot of granules in the gutters;
• there are leaks in more than one place, or soft, spongy spots in the roof deck;
• the roof already has two layers of shingles, so another repair or layover is not an option.

Patching a roof at the end of its life usually means paying for several repairs and then a replacement anyway. After storms, New England wind and ice dams can open up a roof quickly — if you have an active leak, call us and we will get it covered and repaired. For a replacement, you can get an instant estimate on any roofing product page or book a free inspection.

A layover means installing the new siding over the existing wood siding instead of tearing it off. We first go over the walls, fix loose boards and damaged areas, then install a 3/16" foam (fan-fold) insulation board as a flat, even base and put the new siding on top of it.

Why people choose it:

• it costs less than a full tear-off, with less labour and no disposal of the old siding;
• it is faster and much less messy;
• the old siding plus the foam board adds a little insulation;
• on homes built before 1978 it avoids disturbing old lead paint on the wood.

When it is not a good idea: if the old siding or the sheathing behind it is rotted or wet, the problem would be hidden rather than fixed; if the walls are wavy, the new siding will show it; and if there are already two layers, or the siding is vinyl or aluminum, we strip it instead. Window and door trim also has to be deep enough for the extra thickness — we extend or replace it where needed.

We check the walls at the consultation and tell you honestly whether a layover is safe for your house. You can compare both options on any siding product page under "Type of installation".

UBrothers Construction was established in 2014 mainly as a siding replacement company. 99% of all our projects were siding installation jobs. Over time, when we shifted toward working with consumers directly, we've realized that we must redo some work on the recently completed project. For instance, exterior trim on windows doesn't have pockets to receive vinyl siding; PVC casing on windows must be replaced again because it is too thin for fiber cement siding; drip edge on the newly installed roof must be replaced because of the potential damage that will be caused by fascia replacement which is part of your siding project. These are all of the things that you will be paying for, but they could be avoided. That is why "Planning and Preparation" is one of the keystones in any successful renovation project. We are not the windows replacement company, we are not just siding or roofing installers. We are an exterior remodeling company. When we first see your house,  we know that you already have your next project in your head. It never ends, but we just want to help to make it right and hassle-free.

It looks simple on video, but we recommend a licensed contractor for siding, roofing and windows, for four reasons:

• Safety. Most of this work is done on ladders, staging or a pitched roof. Falls are the most common serious injury in residential construction.
• Water. The finished surface is the easy part. What keeps water out is underneath — flashing, house wrap, ice-and-water shield, sealing around windows and doors. Mistakes there do not show for years, until you find rot inside the wall or a stained ceiling.
• Warranties. Manufacturers require their products to be installed to their written instructions, and many void the product warranty when they are not. Improperly nailed vinyl buckles; improperly flashed windows leak.
• Permits and code. Roofing, siding and window replacement need a building permit in Massachusetts, Rhode Island and New Hampshire, and in many towns the permit must be pulled by a licensed contractor.

When we do the job, it is permitted, installed to the manufacturer's specifications, and covered by our 15-year workmanship warranty on top of the manufacturer's warranty. And because we give instant online estimates, you can see what a professional installation costs before you decide.